The built-in flash will stop the wing motion. If you don't want to use the flash, set the mode dial to A (for aperture priority), the ASA to the highest number (6400 if I remember right) and the aperture for wide open (the smallest aperture number the lens will allow.) Those settings will give you the highest electronic shutter speed possible for the light conditions. Try to arrange the scene so the bird is brightly lit against a dark background, and use the spot meter AE setting.Caneri wrote:... I am still learning this camera so I hope to get a pic with the wing beats frozen in a frame...
Pic Of The Day
I don't think you are likely tto get frozen wing movement with any normal flash. The duration of the flash cycle is too long. As far as I know, you can only get that with special high-speed flash equipment which is quite exepnsive. I'm a long-time photographer, so I understand your quest -I've stalked birds for months before getting the shot I was after.
@Eric,
I'll look forward to some more pictures. Finding a Hummer's nest is a bit like the proverbial 'needle', etc. Good luck!
@amigo.
It is possible to freeze motion using normal amateur flash equipment. The usual on-flash camera unit usually isn't very powerful. Providing you can use an off-camera flash via either an extension lead or a plug-in remote sensor, it is possible to freeze movement. The caveat is to use a powerful flash unit - preferably using two units to balance the light and fill in the shadows. I've used Mecablitz, Metz, Vivitar. Assuming a variable flash power setting, use a smaller percentage of power output via a larger f-number or manual output, which equates to higher flash speed than the usual 1000th+ sec. As the light's power falls of by the square of the distance, get in close.
Using digital cameras is a whole new ballgame - especially as many have a 'pre-flash' mode which will trigger any external sensors prematurely. I still prefer my old manual Nikons.
Have a look around for 70's and 80's 'low-tech'. Some of the non-dedicated (to camera) older flash units can be picked up for a song. The smaller, easily transported, Vivitar 285's have served me well in the past.
Nowadays, I like close-up and macro shots of various local wild plants - they are less likely to run/fly away from me!
I'll look forward to some more pictures. Finding a Hummer's nest is a bit like the proverbial 'needle', etc. Good luck!
@amigo.
It is possible to freeze motion using normal amateur flash equipment. The usual on-flash camera unit usually isn't very powerful. Providing you can use an off-camera flash via either an extension lead or a plug-in remote sensor, it is possible to freeze movement. The caveat is to use a powerful flash unit - preferably using two units to balance the light and fill in the shadows. I've used Mecablitz, Metz, Vivitar. Assuming a variable flash power setting, use a smaller percentage of power output via a larger f-number or manual output, which equates to higher flash speed than the usual 1000th+ sec. As the light's power falls of by the square of the distance, get in close.
Using digital cameras is a whole new ballgame - especially as many have a 'pre-flash' mode which will trigger any external sensors prematurely. I still prefer my old manual Nikons.
Have a look around for 70's and 80's 'low-tech'. Some of the non-dedicated (to camera) older flash units can be picked up for a song. The smaller, easily transported, Vivitar 285's have served me well in the past.
Nowadays, I like close-up and macro shots of various local wild plants - they are less likely to run/fly away from me!
Hi Fossil,Flash,amigo et al,
Well I went on a quest tonight and here is but one of the pictures...taken an hour ago.
Best,
Eric
Well I went on a quest tonight and here is but one of the pictures...taken an hour ago.
Best,
Eric
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[color=darkred][i]Be not afraid to grow slowly, only be afraid of standing still.[/i]
Chinese Proverb[/color]
Chinese Proverb[/color]
I promise I won't flood this thread with my quest...but I like this one also.
Eric
Eric
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[color=darkred][i]Be not afraid to grow slowly, only be afraid of standing still.[/i]
Chinese Proverb[/color]
Chinese Proverb[/color]
Re: tux icons
Thanks, ttuuxxx. I almost missed your posting in the rush of 135 unread threads when I returned from my trip to Melbourne.ttuuxxx wrote:hey WhoDo they also had this one which Reminded me of you.
[i]Actions speak louder than words ... and they usually work when words don't![/i]
SIP:whodo@proxy01.sipphone.com; whodo@realsip.com
SIP:whodo@proxy01.sipphone.com; whodo@realsip.com
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jonyo
here is a picture of my living/sleeping/working room.
The red dots are moving laserbeams, surrounded by intergalactic fog in red, yellow and blue (a bit difficult to see on the foto).
The "fog" is the light of LEDs, distorted and projected by rotating mirrors.
These lamps can be found by googling for "laserpod".
The room is enlightened by approx. 200 LEDs only (and one small halogen-spot not visible here, beside my computer).
Many blue ones, to give a warm colour, and some white spots pointing on the wall, so that it is not too dark.
I will add some more spots, as the first ones I bought, have lost a lot of their brightness after using them for 2 months. So I must combine some of them, to get enough brightness.
LEDs consume very little energy, so I can use a very small central 500 mA powersupply for all of those, that are not connected directly to 230 V. (some lamps like the spots were intended to run with batteries only by the manufacturer).
The candle (center) is a yellow LEDs, that flickers like real candles
The only non-LED is the plasma-ball on the right.
In reality, the room looks less cold than on the foto, it has a very calm, a bit meditative ambience.
Mark
The red dots are moving laserbeams, surrounded by intergalactic fog in red, yellow and blue (a bit difficult to see on the foto).
The "fog" is the light of LEDs, distorted and projected by rotating mirrors.
These lamps can be found by googling for "laserpod".
The room is enlightened by approx. 200 LEDs only (and one small halogen-spot not visible here, beside my computer).
Many blue ones, to give a warm colour, and some white spots pointing on the wall, so that it is not too dark.
I will add some more spots, as the first ones I bought, have lost a lot of their brightness after using them for 2 months. So I must combine some of them, to get enough brightness.
LEDs consume very little energy, so I can use a very small central 500 mA powersupply for all of those, that are not connected directly to 230 V. (some lamps like the spots were intended to run with batteries only by the manufacturer).
The candle (center) is a yellow LEDs, that flickers like real candles
The only non-LED is the plasma-ball on the right.
In reality, the room looks less cold than on the foto, it has a very calm, a bit meditative ambience.
Mark
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Last edited by MU on Sat 24 May 2008, 01:49, edited 5 times in total.
[url=http://murga-linux.com/puppy/viewtopic.php?p=173456#173456]my recommended links[/url]
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jonyo
WOW! The nerve center. Where it all happens. Veeery nice. Maybe you're a Pisces..
In a word ..skunkworks.
In a word ..skunkworks.
- A skunkworks is a group of people who, in order to achieve unusual results, work on a project in a way that is outside the usual rules. A skunkworks is often a small team that assumes or is given responsibility for developing something in a short time with minimal management constraints. Typically, a skunkworks has a small number of members in order to reduce communications overhead. A skunkworks is sometimes used to spearhead a product design that thereafter will be developed according to the usual process. A skunkworks project may be secret.
The name is taken from the moonshine factory in Al Capp's cartoon, "Lil' Abner."
Amigo, about two years ago I tested flashes to see which ones froze motion the best. For the test I made a "streak" camera from a 3600 rpm sanding disk with a red dot stuck near the outer edge.
None of the high-powered professional flashes tested froze the red dot, not even the ones that were said to be for sports. However, the camera's built-in flash froze the dot completely. There was no blur visible at all.
The reason the camera's built-in flash has such a short duration is that it controls the flash power by interrupting the current through the flashtube when it determines that the exposure is correct. No high-powered flash does that. High-powered flashes control the flash power by switching the number of capacitors connected to the flashtube and/or varying the voltage stored on those flash capacitors. When the flashtube is triggered, the capacitors discharge through the flashtube until their voltage falls too low to keep the arc going. This takes on the order of a millisecond, which is too long to freeze the motion of a hummingbird's wings. However, if you're close enough to require minimal flash power, the built-in flash of a camera can do it.
None of the high-powered professional flashes tested froze the red dot, not even the ones that were said to be for sports. However, the camera's built-in flash froze the dot completely. There was no blur visible at all.
The reason the camera's built-in flash has such a short duration is that it controls the flash power by interrupting the current through the flashtube when it determines that the exposure is correct. No high-powered flash does that. High-powered flashes control the flash power by switching the number of capacitors connected to the flashtube and/or varying the voltage stored on those flash capacitors. When the flashtube is triggered, the capacitors discharge through the flashtube until their voltage falls too low to keep the arc going. This takes on the order of a millisecond, which is too long to freeze the motion of a hummingbird's wings. However, if you're close enough to require minimal flash power, the built-in flash of a camera can do it.
Thanks Guys,
@Flash...I am testing some of your advice and have had better luck.
@amigo...no matter how fast I am the bird seems faster...sheesh they really are jittery.
I have a few more but feel I may be over posting....but what the heck one more.
Best,
Eric
@Flash...I am testing some of your advice and have had better luck.
@amigo...no matter how fast I am the bird seems faster...sheesh they really are jittery.
I have a few more but feel I may be over posting....but what the heck one more.
Best,
Eric
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[color=darkred][i]Be not afraid to grow slowly, only be afraid of standing still.[/i]
Chinese Proverb[/color]
Chinese Proverb[/color]
Caneri, there are several more things I forgot to mention that might help you get a good shot:
1. Turn off the autofocus. That shaves the time it takes for the lens to autofocus, from the delay between when you push the button and when the camera actually takes the picture. You should be able to predict with good accuracy where the bird will be, so prefocus the lens for that spot and just wait. Good hunting.
2. After you've taken a few shots in A (aperture priority) mode, you'll have a good idea what shutter speed gives the results you want at the ASA and aperture you've set. If you put the camera in M (manual) mode and set that shutter speed and aperture, the delay is reduced because the camera doesn't take time to calculate the exposure, it just takes the picture at the shutter speed and aperture you tell it. I don't know if your camera allows you to manually set the flash power, but if it does, that should eliminate the preflash and instantly take the picture when you push the button.
1. Turn off the autofocus. That shaves the time it takes for the lens to autofocus, from the delay between when you push the button and when the camera actually takes the picture. You should be able to predict with good accuracy where the bird will be, so prefocus the lens for that spot and just wait. Good hunting.
2. After you've taken a few shots in A (aperture priority) mode, you'll have a good idea what shutter speed gives the results you want at the ASA and aperture you've set. If you put the camera in M (manual) mode and set that shutter speed and aperture, the delay is reduced because the camera doesn't take time to calculate the exposure, it just takes the picture at the shutter speed and aperture you tell it. I don't know if your camera allows you to manually set the flash power, but if it does, that should eliminate the preflash and instantly take the picture when you push the button.
Last edited by koolie on Sun 25 May 2008, 21:54, edited 1 time in total.
Found this online. I can not take credit for this. Still, I want to share it for now.
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