(old)Puppy Linux Discussion Forum

Would I be advised to do the following?

1. Download ISO, and the 2 PETs:
   • Seamonkey 2.3.3
   • libstdc++6-4.5
2. Boot the ISO
3. Click to install each PET

Does this cover 3-Head properly?

Thanks for advice

Would I be advised to do the following?

Yeah, Start with the iso. Seamonkey is not mandatory--all of the Chromium-based browsers, Chrome and Iron 13 and Chromium 16 work, as well as Firefox and Opera will work. . The libstdc++6 is just an experiment--it seems to be working so far--it would show up in the next update, if so.

It has the hostname fix you know.

flashplayer 10-3-181-34-lucid

majorfoo, You might try Menu -> Internet -> GetFlash, which will download and install the latest Flashplayer--it seems to be changing so often.

Something hijacked my email icon. I think it was Frisbee but I am not sure--it was changed to mozmail which is not installed. If this happens to you, you can right click the icon, then choose Open as text, and replace mozmail with sylpheed, and then save. Or maybe it was the Spup Seamonkey, which didn't work, hmm.

playdayz wrote:

flashplayer 10-3-181-34-lucid

majorfoo, You might try Menu -> Internet -> GetFlash, which will download and install the latest Flashplayer--it seems to be changing so often.

thanks for info on latest flashplayer.

I d/l flashplayer-10.3.183.5-lucid.pet - I try to keep current version of the stuff that I install on all new versions on my save partition. This speeds up the install process on new full installation for me and saves d/l time for each new version that i try.

luci-001 is working great on my full install - no problems to report.

majorfoo

Changed my frugal install to the latest version.All the usual tweaks and everything appears to be working fine.

tasmod wrote:OK, I hadn't realised that I had included the definitions file in my pet.

EDIT: NEW VERSION Sorry, didn't create correct directory so it would have errored out with binary not found with xfprot.

EDIT: Install Xfprot from below and then select update button to download the virus definitions.

Note- my testing was done on full install if new luci-001

Installed latest version plus Xfport and ran update procedure

Default is to scan /root/desktop - Should this be changed to: path to scan = / in order to scan complete system or at least place notation that it will only scan what is shown?

User needs to maximize screen in order to see complete scan details including scan log

Worked great after I made the entries shown on screenshot below

following is way I set up mine to scan

majorfoo wrote: ... Installed latest version plus Xfport and ran update procedure ...

@Majorfoo, Where is this procedure's steps?

Seems like a useful tool to have to for scanning folders that Windows PCs are writing to over the LAN.

Thanks in advance.

installed Xorg-High-1.1.lucid.pet and mesa from repo works without issue. video quality improved with mplayer

Seamonkey is not mandatory

Indeed! Choose Opera or Chrome and all your woes will end.
Everything working well. Good to see the inclusion of SysInfo - back to the future - still using the FDD DOS version, especially to demonstrate to the uninitiated that their Wbox they claim 'is broken' is fully functional prior to trying to persuade them to load a proper OS.

gcmartin wrote:

majorfoo wrote: ... Installed latest version plus Xfport and ran update procedure ...

@Majorfoo, Where is this procedure's steps?

Seems like a useful tool to have to for scanning folders that Windows PCs are writing to over the LAN.

Thanks in advance.

See page 14 of this thread.
You need F-prot-6.03.pet and Xfprot-2.4.pet

Once installed, open gui = utility > xfprot

Must update virus database = F2

Then select path to scan
I selected / directory to get all
then I checked boxes as shown on example above

then F1 to run scan

Hope this helps

majorfoo

luci001 I'm blinking at about 3 second intervals between different illuminations from brighter to dimer.

aarf wrote:luci001 I'm blinking at about 3 second intervals between different illuminations from brighter to dimer.

other puppies have caught the disease. Remove power cable. Blinking ceases. Battery dies quite soon after. Decision time. New battery or new netbook? other puppies have caught the disease. Remove power cable. Blinking ceases. Battery dies quite soon after. Decision time. New battery or new netbook?

aarf wrote:

aarf wrote:luci001 I'm blinking at about 3 second intervals between different illuminations from brighter to dimer.

other puppies have caught the disease. Remove power cable. Blinking ceases. Battery dies quite soon after. Decision time. New battery or new netbook? other puppies have caught the disease. Remove power cable. Blinking ceases. Battery dies quite soon after. Decision time. New battery or new netbook?

Tough choice. I bought a new battery for my old Thinkpad, but it failed very quickly--I think there was a problem with the charging or something. Newegg always has a nice laptop in the $400 range--I bought my daughter one for high school graduation and a birthday. A Toshiba, not a netbook though. They should be $100 cheaper if you could get one without windows.

With my experience with different kind Acer laptops, 5 different. 2 cases have had good battery when bought replacement. One laptop needed the 2 exchanges before I got working one. Fortunately the firm accepted the change without charge. One laptop worked six months with new battery. Now it still charges ok, but the connection pins just dont take good contact. It shuts down whenever it wants. It is now in cable all the time.
I am not grande consumer of laptops. Those are laptops of whole my family and my mother also.

I am sure above helped in your decision. !?

Might've said something about batteries previously? The trick is to keep them at 'top-of-charge' as often and as long as possible (that includes your car battery, too). NiCd are most familiar in electronic applications although were displaced by NiMH, and now Li-ion. The last named must be charged with a 'smart' charger. Like all the previous types they have their own idiosyncrasies, must not be overcharged nor over discharged, although the danger of bursting into flames seems to have been designed out mostly. Ironically, the safest NiMH types have proved most unreliable in practice even when all the rules are observed. Probably , less than half of mine have achieved their predicted lifecycles. As for NiCd, their memory effect is legendary. These are still in favour for power tools in which they usually get fully discharged fairly frequently before being recharged from the ground state - the best way to treat them. Their downsides make them destined for obsolescence: cadmium is too rare and too toxic for such frivolities.
Whenever feasible use the machines with the charger plug in and mains switched on. Rather defeats the principal objective, of course. But regulars around here will be aware of my very best advice: dump laptops! I still refuse them as gifts - nothing but trouble. If it has to move, get a smart mobile.

battery failure and blinking not happening today. sabotage of my charger cable is now the suspect. mostly i don't leave any wire cables of any sort in my various hotel rooms due to past problems but have been a bit lax in the past couple of weeks and looks like i've paid the price yet again. . always in the same place, subsurface fracture/breakage just before the moulded terminal end connector plug so that it is very difficult to fix.
new end plug and/or charger is cheaper than batteries any how.
till now had already two new replacement end plugs, and one complete new full charger for this one eeepc

fracture/breakage just before the moulded terminal end connector plug so that it is very difficult to fix.

On no it isn't! Split the moulded-on plug axially with a Stanley, dig out/unsolder the leads and fit an el cheapo demountable plug which come in packs of 10 for a couple of quid or less. Alternatively, recruit a proverbial child of six.

Sage wrote:

fracture/breakage just before the moulded terminal end connector plug so that it is very difficult to fix.

On no it isn't! Split the moulded-on plug axially with a Stanley, dig out/unsolder the leads and fit an el cheapo demountable plug which come in packs of 10 for a couple of quid or less. Alternatively, recruit a proverbial child of six.

thanks for the detailed instructions sage. Have in the past considered adding a soldering thingy to my travel bag but rejected it as just too far for the times i would use it. My chinese swiss army knife could replace the stanley. One time i just used masking tape. One time the guy who sold me the plug soldered it for free. Finding the exact replacement plug is the other problem trick. With my previous toshiba had to get someone to solder the leads three times before i decided to change hotel.
I didnt even mention phone chargers.
I didnt even mention phone chargers.

Finding the exact replacement plug is the other problem

Cpc.co.uk and a bunch of traders on eBay/Amazon. Get yourself one of those miniature gas-powered irons whilst your at it!

Sage wrote:

Finding the exact replacement plug is the other problem

Cpc.co.uk and a bunch of traders on eBay/Amazon. Get yourself one of those miniature gas-powered irons whilst your at it!

there are effective road blocks in place against funding the barbarian regime. Both mine and others.